Dar es Salaam Diary

Well, I made it! I have now been on Tanzanian soil for approximately 3.5 hours. My journey was rather uneventful, tho I did manage to pop into London for a few hours during my layover, where wandered around in the rain for a bit, and then stopped in a pub for a pint (which definitely helped me sleep during the next 10-hour leg of my trip here).

I was a bit nervous going through immigration, since I was told that I should just apply for a 3-month visitor's visa at this time. Apparently it's taking HakiElimu a while to get my official work permit, so that was the best interim solution. So I handed my passport and a crisp 50-dollar bill off to an official, who handed it to another official behind some glass (there were about 10 customs officials behind the glass, whose main activities seemed to be passing things between each other and stamping things). I then waited for about 20 minutes, when finally another official motioned for me to step forward, and asked me one question only: Are you married? He then pondered my passport for a bit longer, and finally relinquished it to me along with my visitor's visa. Whew!

After getting my bags, I was met by a man holding a sign bearing my name (I must admit I found that kind of exciting) who drove me in the official HakiElimu van first to the guest house where I will be staying for the next 10 days, and then over to HakiElimu's office, where I am currently writing this post.

Anyway... first impressions. I definitely feel that I am in Africa whatever that means... As in: there is dust; it is HOT; there are women in brightly colored garments carrying all sorts of things on their heads; there are shacks and huts along the road with laundry hanging outside; I see no other white faces... (OK, this is not Hemingway, I realize, but I'm jet-lagged!!!) There were lots of billboards on the way from the airport, mostly cell phone ads, but one that caught my eye in particular was a big ad for condoms, picturing a man and woman in the rain under an umbrella (get it????!!!!) So that says something about social mores, I think. I mean, I don't think we have condom billboards in the states... There were also people walking through the (busy!) streets selling all manner of items: knives, towels, car accessories... My favorite was a guy selling patches and stickers, one of which was a large red circle that said: This car is protected by the blood of JESUS. The way some people were driving, that might not be such a bad idea...

As for first impressions of HakiElimu... Wow! It's hard to know where to begin. I get the sense that the organization is a tightly run ship, tho people also seem pretty relaxed and there appears to be a fair amount of autonomy. Kind of like CBPP! Chambi, a program officer in the Policy Analysis and Advocacy division (with which I will be working) has been showing me around. Most people I've met have been very nice -- many have said they've heard a lot about me, they are glad I'm finally here, etc. etc. My lack of Swahili knowledge is glaringly apparent. Everyone says "Karibu" (Welcome) or "Karibu sana" (You are very welcome). I knew those phrases before arriving, but then I'm not sure how to respond, so they say things like, "Do you even know one word of Swahili??" Perhaps I should have spent a bit more time with that book! But hopefully I will come back after "Swahili Summer Camp" and wow them all...

OK, we're having lunch in a bit, then I think I may go try to nap back at the guest house. This evening Elisabeth (Swiss international volunteer at HakiElimu) and Aika (another colleague in the Policy Analysis and Advocacy division) are planning to have dinner with me, so I feel appropriately looked after. Looking forward to my first taste of Tanzanian food!!!