Friday, July 21, 2006

 

Not quite Cannes, but still pretty cool

When I told a friend from home that I would be going to the Zanzibar International Film Festival, she breathlessly asked (well, as breathless as one can be over e-mail) whether it would be like Cannes, and if I would be brushing elbows with celebrities. Well, I can report that I did have a few run-ins with famous people, but perhaps not exactly who she envisioned.

The most famous person I saw last weekend in Zanzibar was not an actor, nor does he have anything to do with film. He was, however, probably the most noteworthy guest, at least in certain circles. I am referring to the esteemed architect of the Iraq war, and current President of the World Bank, Paul Wolfowitz. Wolfie and co (a bunch of Secret Service looking types in suits and sunglasses) hurried past us on one of Stone Town’s narrow streets on Saturday afternoon. Alas I was not able to snap a photo. He had been on the mainland earlier in the week to meet with President Kikwete and World Bank officials in Tanzania (the Bank just gave TZ a huge loan) and I guess decided to take advantage of the festival and pop over to Zanzibar.

The other Famous Person I encountered is a whole lot cooler: the actor/writer/director/activist Melvin van Peebles, the father of the blaxploitation genre and independent cinema in America. He’s also credited by some (including himself) as being the brains behind Shaft. Allegedly, the film was originally set up as a standard detective story with a white lead. But under Melvin’s influence, the lead was transformed into the baaad motha we know today.

Melvin was the main guest of honor at the festival, and was first introduced on the third evening of the festival, having arrived hours before. He then proceeded to do the sound for the “cine-concert,” which involved a German string quartet providing live, original musical accompaniment for the screening of the German Expressionist horror film Nosferatu (a Dracula story). This event was held in the large stone ampitheatre behind the old German fort. The ampitheatre has the feeling of Roman antiquity, but apparently was built rather recently. Anyway, it worked, and the whole thing was pretty neat.

The Zanzibar International Film Festival is an annual event and lasts for 10 days. Sadly I was only able to go for four of them, since couldn’t swing a whole week off. In addition to film screenings, there are concerts, lectures, art exhibitions, and dance performances. While a number of the films were from Tanzania and other African countries, it was truly an international festival, with films (and other art) from all over the world. In addition to the cine-concert, some of my favorite things at the festival included a great but harrowing documentary about prostitution and HIV/AIDS in Dar called Hyena Square, a creepy Senegalese film about haunted Baobab trees (and democratic elections), and a concert by this great Ugandan group whose name I have forgotten, who played these crazy instruments made out of huge gourds.

It was very hard to leave, but fortunately I know that I will probably return soon. Zanzibar is only 2 hours away on the ferry (only 20 minutes by plane!) and with my residence permit, it’s pretty reasonable. What’s neat is that while it’s so close, the island just has a totally different feel from Dar. Stone Town (the major port city) in particular. Its winding streets and magical feel remind me of Venice. The scooters whizzing around the narrow corners at breakneck speed also help. Though their riders are often swathed in full Muslim garb, so it doesn't entirely feel like Italy.

Comments:
I looove film festivals. Can we go next year? :)
 
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